Navarre - Vineyards and Medieval Villages in the Center of Navarre

South of Pamplona

Map of Navarre

From Cizur Menor, a small village which is a popular stop on the Camino Francés, we head towards Puente la Reina (Stations) about twenty kilometres from Pamplona, where two branches of the Camino de Santiago join to become one.

Cross the old village gate, of which only two towers remain. Stroll along Calle Mayor, to appreciate three remarkable churches : the simple-looking Church of the Crucifix, built by the Knights Templar, the 12th-century Church of Santiago and the Church of San Pedro Apostolos. The whole of Puente la Reina is tinged with pilgrimage. You will find plenty to make a refreshing stop, with restaurants and places to spend the night. There is a pretty stone bridge with 6 arches, over the River Arga (the Pont de Pellerins).

A few minutes to the south is Mendigorria, a small village of interest for the Roman ruins of a village it contains.

If you want to be quiet, to spend your holidays in a beautiful place well located and not very busy, we recommend Artajona a few kilometers further south. A small medieval village well preserved, as if out of time with medieval fortifications and everything you need to feel good there!

Let's go back to Puente la Reina, towards the west, after a short trip to Cirauqui (Zirauki), its pretty old medieval town and its small arcaded square. Then, we continue towards Estella (Lizarra), the next large town on the French Way to Compostela.

Walkers on the road to Santiago de Compostela

Puente la Reina and its bridge

Estella, on the way to Santiago

Estella (Lizarra) is surrounded by mountains and crossed by the Ega. Lizzara means star in Basque. In the 11th century, a legend says that shepherds observed a shower of marvelous stars over the city. Its fame and affluence grew due to the attraction of trade, which the road to Compostela generated in the 13th century. After the successive wars and historical upheavals between Navarre and Castile, it lost its importance.

Today, it is still a popular and generous place of pilgrimage, dynamic, where the gastronomy is renowned and original (especially the dishes with suckling pig). You will visit the church of San Pedro de la Rùa at the foot of the rocky mound of the city, the church of San Miguel, which is above the oldest church of the, Santo Sepulcro. The Basilica of Notre-Dame-du-Puy houses the Patron Saint of the city who watches over it.

Interior of the Basilica of Notre-Dame-du-Puy

Opposite the Church of San Pedro is the Palace of the Kings of Navarre, a medieval arcaded building that is a national monument. Admire its ornate and sculpted columns , one side of which depicts the fight of the Knight Roland.

The Palace houses the Gustavo de Maeztu Museum, which displays plastic works by this versatile artist. Take the opportunity to stop at the fountain located on the square.

Continue your walk through the city, take the Calle de la Rua which is lined with beautiful houses, as well as the Calle Mayor. In the summer, a walk along the Aga, in the Parc de los Llanos is perfect to cool off and even take a dip in the Aga Salada with its mystical properties…

Speaking of mystical and bizarre, if you are not afraid of skulls, go 1km from Estella to the "Garden of Skulls", the Parco de los Desvelados. A plant plateau where the artist Luis García Vidal used rocks, plants and everything that nature offered him to sculpt and draw skulls. Deceased since 2008 in obscure circumstances, this park is unfortunately not maintained. It is original enough to be worth a detour!

For wine lovers, all around Estella there are bodegas (wine cellars) that offer interesting wine tours, especially if you want to stock up on good Navarrese wine !

In Ayegui, there are notably the Irache caves which are also a sort of museum.

Still around Estella, there is Metauten and its high-quality truffle museum, which is particularly interesting when it is the season (especially in winter, for the truffle harvest).

The Palace of the Kings of Navarre

Medieval towns and vineyards

We continue towards Villamayor de Monjardin, a fortress village, former guardian of Estella, overlooking a rolling plain dotted with vineyards. There you will see the astonishing Fuente de los Moros, a sort of cistern fountain with fresh and pure water. The Castle of Monjardin, on the rocky spur, dominates the plain. There is also a Romanesque church with a beautiful baroque tower.

Still on the Camino Francés, towards Viana, there is Los Arcos, watered by the Odrón. There you can see pretty houses, the church of Santa Maria and its high tower, as well as two large gates from the 17th century. Motor sports enthusiasts will be happy to see a very beautiful circuit nearby, the Circuito de Navarra, open to all for a crazy automotive experience.

Viana, well placed on its mound, is also full of beautiful houses, protected by the remains of a rampart. It is the last city of Navarre on the road to Compostela. Founded in the 13th century, it is a medieval stronghold, with a defensive vocation. Visit the Gothic church of Santa Maria and its monumental portal. Gastronomy is in the spotlight in the city in October and all year round in the small bars and restaurants. In the region, discover the wines of the Qualified Designation of Origin Rioja.

The Gothic church of Santa Maria

The streets of Viana

Southeast of Pamplona

On the agenda? Vineyard-covered hills, monasteries, fortified towns, succulent gastronomy and a border with Aragon. Not bad!

If Lumbier is a pretty little steep village set in a basin, with a beautiful 15th century town hall, it is above all the Gorges de Lumbier (Foz de Lumbier, 1300m long, 150m high) which are breathtaking and worth the detour. Nature lovers will be enchanted by the panoramas and numerous hikes that the region offers. The flora is remarkable, the rock has reddish accents and if you take your binoculars, you will see many vultures and other birds of prey that flourish in this nature reserve (since 1987). In all seasons, the landscape is charming. The bright blue water of the Irati River has carved notches in the rock, over the millennia and here and there, you will see an old bridge, then caves dug by the hand of Man, to once allow the circulation of an electric train.

Along the cliff, a marked path allows you to walk (there is also the greenway of the Gorges de Lumbier). Before or after your discovery of this corner of nature, you can go to the Interpretation Center of the Gorges de Lumbier, to learn all about the exceptional local geology.

Did you like this place? Just a little further northwest of Lumbier is the Arbaiun Gorge, carved by the Salazar River. It is the largest canyon in Navarre (6km long, no less!). Head to the Iso viewpoint on the NA 178 (Mirador de Iso).

The Gorges of Lumbier

Near Yesa, there is the Yesa Reservoir (Embalse de Yesa), a gigantic expanse of water (10 km long, 1900 ha surface), surrounded by wild vegetation. It is not a very touristy corner, although frequented by stand-up paddle, windsurfing and wind-surfing enthusiasts.

This region with a pleasant climate, although windy as you will have understood, is unique and the waters that come from the Aragon River are also unique. There are sulphurous resurgences which allow in some places to do a little free balneotherapy ;) The bottom of the lake is muddy, this displeases some for swimming (which is authorized). Be very careful, because the banks of a dam lake are dangerous, being subject to a rapid rise in water levels . Place the towel far from the water and plan to put yourself in a place where the release is easy.

For a beautiful view of the lake, go to the very beautiful Monastery of Leyre.

If you pass through Yesa , for example for your picnic of the day, observe the remains of the Pont des Roncalais.

Further south is Javier Castle with its crenellated towers, drawbridge, arrow slits and castle machicolations.

At the beginning of March, a famous pilgrimage takes place in this region: the Javierada. We arrive by a metal bridge, in Sangüesa, a town on the banks of the Aragon, which has prospered from the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. Pilgrims flock to admire the 12th century church of Santa Maria la Real and its Romanesque-style portal. In Sangüesa, you can taste Pochas, flageolets (white beans) concocted in the Navarrese stew. Stroll through the town to discover the architectural and artistic gems it contains, attesting to its former prosperity. Palaces, (including that of the Prince of Viana), beautiful town hall and arcaded squares, also the Carmen Convent and its cloister. If you are in the area in early January, don't miss the Auto des Rois Mages, a religious festival every January 6th (since 1967!!)

Lake Yesa

Tafalla and Olite

We return a little towards the interior of Navarre to visit Tafalla and its old town (the upper town). There we will see the church of Santa María, in a maze of medieval streets lined with beautiful palaces and numerous coats of arms on the facades.

In Taffala, we are greedy and naughty: we discover the caramels "El Caserío", made in the city. A recipe from the 30s, with pine nuts, coffee and milk, but no sugar (the only one in the world), yum!

Continue your route to Ujué (Uxue), a pretty hilltop village whose specialty is almonds.

The town of Tafalla and its “El Caserío” caramels

We now arrive at Olite, the ancient capital of the Kings of Navarre. When we hear the word " palace ", it is absolutely the Palacio Real de Olite that comes to mind. Vast, majestic, imposing and light at the same time, it has been the subject of numerous renovations, improvements, enlargements and restorations. Turrets with pointed round roofs covered with slate, crenellated towers, courtyards richly decorated with plants. It is a residential palace, without defensive vocation. The visit will please the whole family.

In Olite there are alleys that cross and intersect, a Roman wall and beautiful churches : Santa Maria la Real, for example. The Carlos III square, the Mayor street (and the San Pedro church) are transformed into a lively place during the annual medieval festivals in August. Shows, costumes, jousting and also… wine ! It is famous in Olite, there are wineries and cooperatives all around the city and the Vine and Wine Exhibition Center to visit.

Royal Palace of Olite